‘À La Folie’ explores Justine Dupont’s fiery passion for big wave surfing

Justine Dupont has released a new film that chronicles her best season to date. Photo: Red Bull Content Pool/Fred Pompermayer

Justine Dupont is, undoubtedly one of the best big wave surfers in the world. The 2020/2021 season was a bit defining for her, and a new film, To insanityexplore it in detail.

When Dupont was 11, she stole her father’s surfboard and snuck onto a beach in Lacanau. It was the beginning of a life that revolved around the ocean. It soon became apparent that she had a serious talent for surfing and began to participate in competitions. In 2011, she reached second place at the World Junior Championships, and it was clear she was going to be a force to be reckoned with.

The following year, she qualified for the 2012 WSL CT, but the week before her first event at the highest level, she injured herself in training and lost her place. Instead of giving up, however, she focused her energy on improving – and not just on a shortboard. Over the next few years she won a handful of European longboard titles and became the 2019 ISA Stand Up Paddle World Champion.

And then she tried big wave surfing. It was a moment of life before and life after; one that would define his career path in relief. It was in Belharra that she did her first towing and she knew from that moment that it was what she wanted to do. She packed her things, moved to Portugal and started the rest of her life. Cutting her teeth in Nazaré prepared her for just about anything the big wave world could throw at her. She proved her skills at Maverick’s and Jaws, winning numerous XXL awards and winning two Nazaré Challenge titles. The world took notice of his immense talent.

Justine Dupont surfs at Maverick's.

Justine Dupont wowed the Maverick’s. Photo: Red Bull Content Pool/Fred Pompermayer

“The first time I met Justine was in Nazaré,” said Kai Lenny. “Pretty immediately, I noticed her comfort level was really, really high, in one of the most treacherous oceans I’ve ever been in. Justine struck me as someone very dedicated to the game. She’s a badass and the nicest person possible.

Dupont’s passion for big wave surfing is unparalleled, hence the name of the film.

“To the madness means ‘with a lot of passion’,” she says. “That’s the case for me anyway, because otherwise it means ‘madness’, and that’s not how I see my surfing. Last year was my best season yet, so it was a great feeling to have captured everything, to show how I feel, how I do everything with my team and all the work beyond surfing. I never seek victory. I surf for me. I only care about the waves.

Watch the full movie on Redbull.com

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