A white settler living on stolen California land eviscerates the image of modern surfing: “Surfing has a reputation for embodying all the dullest and most violent aspects of white masculinity!”

“It’s pretty amazing how things turn out like this…I’ve gotten a bit famous, I guess.”

Malibu surfer Andy Lyon, who you’ll hear on a Dirty Water podcast in a few days, was the star, victim of, whatever you call him, a viral video that cost him work, got him doxxed, and his child threatened.

As a reminder, Lyon and a retro cowboy get tangled up, Lyon’s board breaks; he retaliates by taking the nostalgic contraption with a rock before paddling it past the Malibu pier.

A TikTok video and Instagram account @andylyonsisakook soon followed.

Sort of standard stuff and very good entertainment value.

See this post on Instagram

A post shared by Andy Lyon is a kook (@andylyonisakook)

Lyon, who is fifty-nine and has been surfing the joint for fifty years, is optimistic when BeachGrit calls despite death threats, the publication of his address and the warning that his five-year-old son is going to be beaten up.

“You know, it’s been a good race right now,” he said. “Fuck dealing with all these little punks, keyboard warriors. It’s pretty amazing how things turn out like that… I got a bit famous, I guess.

The incident, and the response from both sides, marks the change, I think, in modern surf culture. On one side you have the original cats, good surfers, always on short boards, who grew up with the unwritten code that if the locals don’t get their waves, all hell will break loose.

It’s unpleasant, but the crowded queues greased by the underlying threat of violence have at least some semblance of order.

The prevailing mindset, however, is that all surfers are equal, beginners, SUP surfers, even celebrities being pushed across the waves on giant foam surfboards by their sherpas, and that retaliation is theirs. to a distant and ugly past.

As for being doxxed, supposedly canceled, etc., Lyon says, “I accept that. People say it ended his career but, it’s like, shit just goes away. It’s the beginning!”

Lyon is pushing to erase the file on the kid supposedly traumatized by the ordeal.

“He was in his twenties and about a foot taller than me,” he says. “He wasn’t a fucking kid!”

Full story via the Dirty Water podcast, in a few days.

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